Breaking Beauty Boundaries: SCC77 Unveils Eco-Wonders, Microbiome Marvels, and Future Trends in Cosmetic Chemistry

Introduction:

The 77th Society of Cosmetic Chemists' (SCC) Annual Scientific Meeting (SCC77) took place at the Sheraton Times Square in New York from December 11-13, 2023. The event featured a range of sessions and activities, spanning from awards presentations to discussions on drivers of change in cosmetic product development, microbiome studies, advancements in hair and skin care, and the President's Awards Luncheon.

Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Day 1 Highlights:
The first day commenced with welcoming remarks by SCC President Mark Chandler, followed by a fireside chat with Sanford Browne from L'Oréal. Four prestigious industry awards were presented: the Green Star award, Joseph P. Ciaudelli award, Hans Schaeffer award, and the Young Scientist award.

Frontiers of Science Keynote Lecturer Larry Weiss, M.D., of Symbiome, presented, "Back to Health - An Evolutionary Biology Perspective on the Skin Microbiome."

Green Star Award: Alexis Forbes-Moorehead received the Green Star award for the "Eco Botanical Hair Conditioner Pod," recognizing outstanding green, sustainable formulations.

Joseph P. Ciaudelli Award: Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D., and Timothy W. Gillece were honored with the Joseph P. Ciaudelli award for their article on "Enviromechanical Assessment of Fixative Hair Fiber Composite Films."

Hans A. Schaeffer Award: Paul Lawrence, Ph.D., received the Hans A. Schaeffer Award for his innovative presentation on "Reviving a More Than Century-Old Technology for Modern Skincare."

Young Scientist Award: Allison Garlet was presented the Young Scientist Award for her presentation on "Addressing Hyperpigmentation in Melanated Skin."

The day's second session focused on drivers inspiring change in cosmetic product development, covering topics such as biology, epigenetics for anti-aging, AI in consumer understanding, and technology in product development to meet regulatory requirements.

Day 2 Highlights:
Day two began with a continental breakfast, a technology and poster showcase, and a keynote lecture by Larry Weiss, M.D., of Symbiome, on the skin microbiome. The session highlighted the complexity of the microbiome and its impact on skin health.

A new vegan, keratin-like filler to protect hair was presented by Allison Garlet, of BASF France. The product penetrated hair, including the cortex and damaged cuticle, stabilizing its structure via molecular bonding and providing breakage protection.

Microbiome Insights: Larry Weiss discussed the complexity of the microbiome and emphasized the need for caution in making claims about microbiome-friendly products without proper clinical correlation.

Hair Care Advances:

- Vegan Protein: Allison Garlet presented Kerasylium, a vegan, keratin-like filler derived from upcycled Silybum marianum seedcake extract, showing improved hair condition and protection.

We used to have a biofilm," Weiss explained. "Bacteria resolved REDOX but now, [without it], essentially, we're 'rusting.'" He added that bacteria also previously provided metabolic support and communicated with our immune system.

- Conditioning Dynamics: Marni Dexter explored the effects of ingredient compositions on the structure, stability, and efficacy of hair conditioners.

- Recombinant Collagen: Shuxian Hu discussed the production of a 100% pure recombinant collagen for hair care with positive clinical results.

Shuxian Hu, of Trautec, described the production of a 100% pure recombinant collagen for hair regrowth.

Skin Care Advances:

- Tripeptide for Sebum and Pore Control: Lilian Mussi presented a synthetic tripeptide-85 for sebum and pore size control, with immediate and lasting effects.

Lilian Mussi, of Chemyunion, Inc., spoke on the synthetic tripeptide-85 (L-glutamyl-L-valyl -L-phenylalanine) and its unique melanocortin receptor-5 (MC5R) mechanism to control sebum.

- Cellulose Attributes: Clementine Fabre decoded cellulose and its critical attributes for formulation efficacy.

- Immunocosmetics and the Microbiome: Morgan Drohan considered immunocosmetics and their relationship with the skin microbiome.

President's Awards Luncheon:
The luncheon featured awards presentations to outstanding individuals, including the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award, SCC Merit Award, Florence Wall Women in Cosmetic Chemistry Award, and Robert A. Kramer Lifetime Service Award. The SCC Presidential gavel was passed from Mark Chandler to Tony O'Lenick.

SCC President, 2023-24, Tony O'Lenick, Surfatech and Nascent Technologies

Incoming Board Members for 2024:

- President: Anthony J. O’Lenick

- Vice President: Akshay Talati

- Vice President-Elect: Marisa Plescia

- Secretary: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

- Treasurer: Yulia A. Park, Ph.D.

- Area I: Senior Area Director Volodymyr Onyshchak, Area Director Amy Marshall

- Area II: Senior Area Director Sophie Bonham, Area Director Caryn Weiss

- Area III: Senior Area Director Aaron Peterson, Area Director Valerie George

- Area IV: Senior Area Director Cubie Lamb, Area Director Cynthia Johnson

- Area V: Senior Area Director Lionel Ripoll, Area Director Dorothy Maraprossians

Conclusion:

The President's Awards Luncheon concluded with an exhibition and poster session for networking. Afternoon sessions delved into topics like all-inclusive beauty and further advancements in skin care. SCC77 provided a comprehensive exploration of the latest developments in the cosmetic industry, from sustainable formulations to cutting-edge research on the microbiome and innovative hair and skin care solutions.