In-cosmetics Global virtual conference a success as thousands watch live

housands of industry professionals tuned in for the three-day digital webinar programme offering a snapshot of what’s to come in October 2020

in-cosmetics Global may have been postponed, but to ensure the industry was able to continue learning from home, last week the event ran its first-ever virtual conference. More than 3,000 industry professionals tuned in to watch the 28 live webinars, as speakers gave a sneak peek of what will be discussed in the Technical Seminars, Workshops and Marketing Trends Theatre when the event officially opens in Barcelona this October. The full series is available on-demand at www.in-cosmetics.com/Landing-pages/Online-Conference/.

A first look at the industry’s latest ingredients

Leading industry professionals, representing a number of exhibitors, used the new digital conference to share their expertise and reveal newly launched ingredients. Among them was Christin Ihrig, Marketing Manager Active Ingredients at Evonik, who provided participants with advice on how to empower your body’s natural shield using ceramides.

Described as a ‘powerhouse ingredient’, Christin detailed why ceramides are recognised for their anti-ageing, moisturising and barrier-fortifying benefits. She also provided a preview of two new products within the Evonik range: a follow up to the successful bio-inspired hair and scalp care ingredient Hairflux ®, which is designed for the body and skin; and a new smart and efficient way to formulate Ceramide 3.

Another webinar to focus on a newly launched product was run by Givaudan’s Category Manager for Biotech Active Ingredients, Mathias Fleury. He spoke about the importance of melatonin release in achieving healthier skin, revealing details of the brand’s new Synchronight microbiome-activated digital stress defender. Crafted by green fractionation, the active ingredient is made from gardenia fruit extract and protects the skin's melatonin production cycle. It behaves as a vegetal melatonin-like compound when activated by the skin microflora, while rejuvenating the skin and improving sleep quality.

Helping formulators create natural vegan colours in line with consumer desires, Genevieve Lee, Marketing Manager for Cosmetic Effect Pigments at BASF Colors & Effects, showed viewers how they can make conscious living a bold statement with its new intense pigment – Cloisonné Vibrant Raspberry. The product is based on natural mica from ethical and environmentally conscious mining operations, and can be combined with other pigments to produce applications in a range of colours from light pink to deep violet.

In another broadcast delivered by Evonik’s Head of Marketing Product Protection, Silvana Estarita-Jäde, viewers discovered more about the manufacturer’s new TEGODEO A30 eco – a highly effective natural odour absorber that has proven efficacy in both in-vitro and in-vivo tests and is effective for 24 hours. She discussed how there are many different approaches to eliminate body odours and that last year 4,744 deodorant products were launched, with only 23% claiming to be natural. Contrary to this, Evonik’s new ingredient is in line with consumer expectations as it is mild, gentle, reliable, and natural.

Justine Cotton, Global Marketing Manager and New Business Development at Ashland, also revealed the brand’s newest ingredient Nightessence biofunctional, which enhances the naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost molecules such as timezyme and melatonin. Building on the current beauty sleep trend, it is tailored to optimise the skin’s nighttime needs, helping ensure that it looks rested, renewed and illuminated by morning. Nightessence biofunctional is eco-consciously designed from field-to-skin, made with lavender that is sustainably grown in Provence, France.

A taste of the Technical Seminars

Other technical-seminars-turned-webinars gave a taste of some of the exciting ingredients that R&D professionals can engage with at the show in October.

Describing Symrise Cosmetics Ingredients’ 360° approach to optimised sunscreen formulations, Global Product Manager, Martina Issleib, spoke about the brand’s unique and holistic approach to the multiple challenges of formulating modern sunscreen products. She highlighted the variety of issues facing formulators, from the efficiency of UV filters and film-forming to formulation stability and consumer acceptance.

Illustrating the company’s approach to achieving optimised formulations, Martina revealed that its SymEffect Sun solution provides a gentle film-forming in formulations without a negative feeling on the skin. In-vivo studies have demonstrated the solution increases SPF by 10-27%, even at low concentrations of 2-3%, and improves water resistance by more than 20% in different sunscreen formulations. Made from 100% naturally derived ingredients, including cera alba (beeswax), it is also a sustainable alternative to synthetic and silicone-based film-forming and SPF-enhancing raw materials.

Dr. Silvia Pastor, Head of Scientific Research & Business Development at LipoTrue S.L., also delved into the skin's microbiome to help unlock anti-ageing properties. She explained how a unique microbial community has remained preserved and protected in an ancient underwater Mallorcan cave, which provides its bacterial ferment: Æonome.

Delivering a new approach to the skin’s microbiome, the prebiotic is metabolised by the commensal cutaneous microbiota, enhancing the production and release of antioxidant metabolites and protecting the skin cells from oxidative stress and signs of ageing. Æonome efficacy reinforces the antioxidant protection of the microbiota of the skin cells’ ageless force, improving rugosity, wrinkles and hydration.

Sneak peek at the biggest Marketing trends

Renowned industry experts from major market research providers and big-name suppliers opened and closed the conference each day, highlighting some of the sector’s most prominent trends and challenges.

Gabriella Beckwith, Senior Analyst – Beauty and Fashion at Euromonitor International, officially opened the virtual conference by giving listeners a tour of the world's beauty hotspots and discussing how standards of beauty differ significantly around the globe. Backed up by key statistics, she discussed how the K-Beauty market has matured and is now seeing a decline, whereas J-Beauty is gaining momentum as consumers prioritise efficacy. After reviewing other hotspots, including Australia, India and Scandinavia, Gabriella let viewers in on the secret of which regions are the ones to watch, including Africa, Germany and Brazil.

Exploring this in more detail, Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao, Founding Director of Malée Natural Science, presented a webinar on the art of African beauty. The continent is forecasted to be a significant region of growth for the cosmetic industry, as current annual growth of approximately 8-10% is surpassing the average global rate of 4%. Zeze shared her thoughts on how the perception of Africa is very different to the reality. She highlighted the growing middle class that is willing to spend three times as much as the average consumer – a demographic which is mostly found in Sub-Saharan Africa. She also discussed the key threats to the market, as well as the hierarchical position of key industry players.

Kicking off day two, Andrew McDougall, Associate Director Beauty and Personal Care at Mintel, highlighted the shifting behaviour between consumers and brands. Sharing exclusive research, he revealed the growing scepticism about brand transparency, with 60% of UK consumers doubting the claims beauty brands make about their products, such as reducing wrinkles. He also said that consumer trust is increasing in products or ingredients created by scientists, with 78% of Brazilian consumers embracing products, such as Hydrochloric Acid, while 75% of Spanish consumers would be willing to use products/ingredients created by scientists that offered the same benefits and performance as natural products. Andrew closed the webinar by revealing the topics currently being explored by the Mintel team with reports on fermentation, biotechnology and sustainability expected to be released in the coming months.

On day three, Stylus’ Senior Beauty Editor, Lisa Payne, introduced five game-changing beauty consumer tribes, including Skintellectuals - the consumer group that will have the biggest impact on the industry over the next decade – who are more demanding, want value for money and hardworking formulas.

Another consumer group, the Creative Cosmetic Kids, considers 90% of American girls aged 9-17 to be beauty product users. This target audience is often targeted with planet-friendly alternatives, as young people are seen to be more concerned with environmental issues. And, highlighting the beauty is ageless, Lisa went on to highlight the Well-Ageing Warriors and the 360 Ethical Millennial who demand a complete approach to eco-ethical beauty.

With 79% of UK adults feeling that personal care and beauty brands need to put more effort into ethical and sustainable product production, Laura Busata, Cosmetics R&D Senior Specialist at UNIFARCO S.p.A., closed the three-day virtual conference with a webinar on ocean safe beauty.

She remarked how the “green” beauty trend extended the term “clean beauty” from just consumer safety to the prevention of harming the environment, with “ocean safe beauty” being one of the last born beauty trends. With a focus on minimising harm to marine life, Laura succinctly delivered the directions we should follow, including limiting the use of impactful ingredients, choosing more environmentally friendly packaging and reducing water wastage in formulations.

Commenting on the launch of the Virtual Conference, in-cosmetics Global Event Director Roziani Zulkifli said:

“For the last 30 years, in-cosmetics Global has served the personal care and cosmetic sector as a live event to engage, inspire and reveal what’s new. Whilst we eagerly wait to do this in person this October, we wanted to maintain a sense of community within the cosmetics industry and provide a platform for our amazing exhibitors and speakers to share their expert insight. We are delighted to have so many R&D professionals join us live and on-demand for a teaser of this year’s show. It is just a taste of what’s to come from in-cosmetics Global 2020, so watch this space!”

The in-cosmetics Global Online Conference can be viewed on-demand on the BrightTalk Webinar channel. To watch, please visit: www.in-cosmetics.com/Landing-pages/Online-Conference/