3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid (VCE)/Amphiphilic, good skin penetration/Skincare formulation research

Description

3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid (commonly called ethyl VC or VC ethyl ether) is a structurally modified stable vitamin C derivative. Its CAS number is 86404-04-8, EINECS number 617-849-3, molecular formula C₈H₁₂O₆, molecular weight 204.18, and INCI name is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. By introducing an ethyl group into the vitamin C molecule, it retains the core activity of vitamin C while greatly improving the stability and skin permeability of the ingredient. It is one of the most widely used VC derivatives in the skincare industry at present. This product is high-purity (≥99%) white crystalline powder of cosmetic grade, featuring good solubility and strong compatibility, and is suitable for the research, development and production of various skincare formulations.

Key Effects

The core value of 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid lies in the balance between "stability" and "activity". Native vitamin C is prone to oxidation and discoloration, and sensitive to light and heat. In contrast, this ethylated VC derivative maintains stable properties under conventional formulation conditions. Meanwhile, it can penetrate the skin better and convert into vitamin C in the body to exert effects. It reduces melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and possesses multiple skincare benefits such as scavenging free radicals and boosting collagen synthesis. It is a classic multi-functional skincare active ingredient.

Specifically, its functions in skincare formulations are as follows:
Brightening skin tone: Inhibits tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production at the source, helping to improve dullness and even out and brighten the complexion.
Antioxidation: Scavenges free radicals and helps the skin resist oxidative stress caused by external environments.
Collagen promotion: Participates in collagen synthesis to help maintain skin elasticity and firmness.
High stability: More resistant to light and heat and less susceptible to oxidative discoloration than native VC, so it can retain its activity for a longer time in formulations.
Good absorbability: Features favorable hydrophilicity and skin permeability, enabling it to penetrate deeper into the skin to work effectively.

Applications

3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is mainly applied in the formula development of various brightening and anti-early aging skincare products, serving as a popular star ingredient in categories such as serums, creams and masks. It achieves optimal stability within the formula pH range of 4.5–6.5, can be well compounded with mainstream active ingredients including peptides, niacinamide and retinol, and is compatible with aqueous systems and multiple dosage forms.

Specific application scenarios include:
Brightening products: used in brightening serums, brightening essences and formulations for evening skin tone.
Anti-early aging products: used in anti-wrinkle and firming serums and creams.
Antioxidant products: used in daytime protection and anti-pollution skincare formulations.
Masks and eye care: used in localized care products such as sheet masks, wash-off masks and eye creams.
Multi-formula compatibility: applicable to various dosage forms including lotions, gels, emulsions and creams. The recommended conventional addition amount is 0.5%–3%, subject to actual formula test results.