Cosmetics and personal care professionals descend on Paris Expo Porte de Versailles for triumphant return of in-cosmetics Global
The world’s leading personal care ingredients show returned in-person as thousands of suppliers and cosmetic ingredient manufacturers came together to network, learn, and do business
25 April 2022 – in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, made its triumphant return to Paris this month, marking its first physical European event after a three-year hiatus. More than 8,000 cosmetic and personal care professionals descended on the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, filling the halls for the much sought-after opportunity to discover, test and try the latest ingredient launches in person, while taking advantage of in-person networking and educational opportunities.
Speaking about the return of the face-to-face event, Alexander Stusenvoll, Sales and Marketing Manager, Impag Germany said: “We have been part of in-cosmetics for many years, and after three years of video calls, we have been looking forward to meeting people in person. We have had high attendance from French suppliers in particular and it’s great to see them again and to see other friendly faces. To be back ‘on stage’ is excellent. The quality of discussions and meetings have been successful, and we took the chance to present our new ideas and inspirations so hopefully this means we are able to follow up with more in-depth discussions. We are very happy to be back. in-cosmetics is a social reunion event which is a very important part that you completely lack with video calls.”
Innovation takes centre stage
With more than 800 exhibitors in attendance, innovation was top of the agenda throughout the three-days as leading ingredient suppliers took the opportunity to announce a flurry of new product announcements. It not only demonstrated the industry’s continued focus on new product development, but why in-cosmetics Global is renowned as a hotbed of ingredient innovations.
Among the exhibitors announcing their latest launches, Gattefossé revealed its new plant-derived active ingredient, Solastemis. Designed to offer brands, particularly dermo-cosmetics, a powerful active ingredient to protect the skin against UV rays, it responds to the growing needs of consumers concerned about the health of their skin. Meanwhile, Symrise debuted its latest breakthrough innovation in modern product protection in the form of its Hydrolite® 8 green—the first high quality 100% bio-based, neat caprylyl glycol launched in the cosmetics market.
Elsewhere on the show floor, Clariant Natural Ingredients introduced Prenizen – a new natural, ‘feel good’ active that helps to fight stress-induced hair loss, improve hair vitality and density, and restore hair and scalp wellbeing. While Vantage Personal Care introduced a brand-new formulation platform focused on providing formulators with a broad combination of highly traceable, sustainable, and deeply impactful ingredients – highly relevant for conscious consumers.
Fellow exhibitor Dow also unveiled five new technologies alongside its ECOllaboration Concepts Collection to address growing consumer demand for sustainable and inclusive solutions. Of the new product announcements, four covered skin and hair applications, designed to highlight Dow’s new bio-based innovative ingredients and eight pioneering formulations. It also showcased a series of six new featured trade products including MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer – a unique corn-based ingredient that enables the formulation of crystal-clear hair styling formulations; DOWSIL™ 979 Emulsion for use in conditioners, leave-in and shampoo formats; and EcoSmooth™ Rice Husk Cometic Powder, an upcycled white silica powder designed to be added in a wide range of common skin care, colour cosmetics, and hair care formulation types.
Speaking about the importance of ingredient innovation, Sandra Sato, Dow Global Segment Leader Sensory, said: “At Dow, our portfolio evolution never stops- bringing more sustainable and inclusive personal care ingredients that connect with the latest trends is a key priority for both our local and global teams.
“Our brand new ECOllaboration Concepts Collection illustrates this approach like never before, bringing together eight brand-new formulations that highlight both recent and new launches while keeping a minimum of 90% natural ingredient origin in each formulation. The expansion of our portfolio is designed to empower customers around the world to create personal care solutions with not only a differentiated performance, but also with ingredients that are safe for people and the planet.”
Sustainable future leads the next beauty revolution
With an overarching focus on sustainability, this year’s in-cosmetics Global demonstrated the steps being taken by the beauty and personal care industry to reduce its environmental impact through ingredient choices and formulation methods. While sustainability has long been high on the industry agenda, this year’s show highlighted the tangible progress being made by brands and ingredient suppliers alike. The event’s Sustainability Corner, sponsored by AAK, returned to offer attendees a snapshot of the latest advancements and accomplishments in sustainable personal care.
Visiting the Sustainability Corner at in-cosmetics Global, Helene Villecroze, Cco Design Manager, Chanel Parfums Beauté, said: “As environmental concerns increase, it’s better for consumers to have another perspective on sustainability and a point of view for ingredients. The Sustainability Corner offers a summary of the best products that exhibitors are presenting, giving examples, and proposing more sustainable ideas.”
Fellow attendee, Agatha Bernedot, Product Development Manager, FRESH added: “The Sustainability Corner has made me realise there are some good solutions to sustainability which I plan to use to challenge our formulation development team. This is a tricky area, and it is hard to keep the consumer happy whilst being natural and sustainable.”
Other interactive product features pulled in crowds throughout the duration of the three-day event, included the newest raw ingredients to hit the market in the Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland; new and invigorating sensations in the Sensory Bar, sponsored by IMCD; and innovative pigments and technologies in the Make-up Bar, sponsored by Lubrizol Life Science.
Speaking about the product areas, Florence L’Alloret, Innovation Project Leader, L’Oréal said: “The interactive features at in-cosmetics Global are a great way to get a global overview of the latest innovations across a wide range of topics. I’m particularly interested in finding ingredients sourced from nature and I’ve been able to find lots of interest.”
Celebrating excellence and award-winning ingredients
Demonstrating the industry’s ever-growing focus on excellence and innovation, the product areas at in-cosmetics Global were also a source of celebration over the course of the event, with the organisers revealing the winners of the 2022 awards.
Following a record-breaking year of entries, day one saw the winners of the in-cosmetics Global Awards crowned. Among the gold award winners, IFF – Lucas Meyer took the Innovation Zone: Active Ingredient title for its Wastar™ Pink Berry, an upcycled botanical extract rich in biflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps. Lubrizol Life Science celebrated the top Functional Ingredient Award for its PemuPur™ START Polymer, while the Green Ingredient Award, in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence, went to Nafigate Corporation for its Biopolymer Hydal PHA – polyhydroxybutyrate, an upcycling ingredient and biopolymer. The first day also saw Tagra Biotechnologies scoop the coveted Rising Star Award.
The celebrations continued into day two when the organisers unveiled the winners of its 2022 Sensory Bar and Make-Up Bar Awards. With a focus on new and invigorating sensations, the in-cosmetics Global Sensory Bar, sponsored by IMCD, announced SABO S.p.A had scooped the gold title for its All-in-one (Rice)ing Balm. Meanwhile, at the popular Make-Up Bar, sponsored by Lubrizol Life Science, Daito Kasei Europe was recognised for delivering naturality and sustainability with high-performance sensoriality. It presented four innovations including an eco-friendly silicone-like serum foundation; talc-free velvet blush pressed powder; powdery eyeshadow cream; and velvet matte lip cream. Information on all of this year’s winners can be found here.
A place to learn and gather new ideas
Invigorated by the opportunity to come together and learn about the latest industry trends, the seminar theatres at in-cosmetics Global saw packed crowds return to garner new ideas from the industry’s most recognised thought leaders. Sustainability continued to make headlines at the Sustainability Corner, as speakers from DSM, CP Kelco, Roquette Beauté, Lubrizol Life Science and Givaudan Active Beauty highlighted a range of topics centred on sustainability and responsible innovation.
In a session led by Emily Thomas, Corporate Sustainability Manager, CP Kelco, titled ‘Meeting sustainability goals without compromising on consumer experience’, attendees learnt about the company’s latest consumer research, which revealed that the number one concern among consumers is the health of the planet. Emily stressed that it was important for brands to take a holistic approach to creating sustainable products. She revealed why transparency is crucial to today's consumer, and spoke openly about the challenges of formulating with natural products whilst maintaining performance, sustainability, and affordability. Furthermore, Emily revealed the strategies in place at CP Kelco to create sustainable products and a sustainable future, and how this facilitates the transition to a circular economy by using renewable energy, resources, collaborating with customers and helping others to reduce their environmental footprint.
On day two Laura Schlebes, AAK Sustainable Program Manager, AAK AB, revealed the key learnings from personal care supply chains and how Life Cycle Assessments could be used as a tool to identify risks and opportunities. She spoke about the large environmental footprint of cultivation, and spotlighted often-used ingredients, such as shea, for its highly sustainable nature.
Seminar attendee, Marian Courtemanche, R&D Formulator, Capsum, said: “It’s been interesting at the seminars to have access to information on raw materials at a great level of detail. I will use this to be able to influence formulas and manufacture new products. It’s much easier to connect with people in person, and great to be able to attend these talks.”
Technical Seminars, sponsored by Stepan, also provided attendees with a deep dive into the latest personal care ingredients. Delivered by raw material suppliers, including Ithos Global, Lipoid Kosmetik, ROELMI HPC, Stepan, Lubrizol Life Science and Cargill Beauty, attendees were provided with the scientific evidence to substantiate the claims associated with a wide range of products.
For example, Hallstar Beauty’s Anna D’Elia, Functional Naturals Business Manager delivered a session on the company’s Olivem® 2090. The cold-process, water-in-oil emulsifier, launched in 2021, allows stable, hydrating, light but velvety products by creating a homogeneous layer that surrounds water droplets. It makes it an ideal emulsifier for skincare, baby care and make-up. Anna highlighted it offers the added benefit of broad compatibility with suncare ingredients. While it’s sensoriality, along with W/O emulsions’ innate waterproof properties, helps in developing light sunscreens, even those with high SPF levels.
Meanwhile, Sekyoo Jeong, Director and CTO, Incospharm Corp provided attendees with the results of the company’s extensive investigation of epidermal endocannabinoid system (EECS) and biotech-based product system and the new Cannabimetric ingredients derived from natural plant oils. He shared insights from laboratory and clinical testing which confirmed the beneficial effects of the Cannabimetics for troubled skin, especially acne-prone skin.
In addition to a high-value and thought-provoking seminar programme, formulators and R&D specialists were invited to learn about new formulation techniques in the popular Formulation Lab®, sponsored by Brenntag. The diverse programme of sessions saw teams explore how to create unique and exciting textures with Gellan Gum with Azelis; anti-aging gel creams with slow-release functions using fermented ingredients with Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation Limited and how to cleanse the skin with 100% natural ingredients, hosted by sponsors Brenntag. Overall, a total of 13 sessions ran over the course of two days, delivering unrivalled learning and hands-on formulation experience for attending R&D teams.
R&D professionals were also quick to return and snap up places on the popular R&D Tours, hosted by leading technical consultant and cosmetics chemist, Rouah Al-Wakeel. Three tours ran for the duration of the live event, spanning Naturals, Trends, and Skin and Suncare.
Luisa Oliva, founder and CEO of LO Consulting, said: “I have attended many R&D tours at this year’s event, and they leave a lasting impression. You can step out of your comfort zone to meet new exhibitors, discover new perspectives and find different trends. The Natural tours were very good. I also attended the Trends tours and the Skin and Suncare ones. The tours are very informative and a great place to discover other perspectives. They’re flexible, interactive and the perfect place to ask all of your questions!”
New hybrid approach continues the conversation
After three packed days of in-person innovation, in-cosmetics Global reopened its virtual doors to the industry to enable attendees to continue the conversation and catch-up on seminar sessions missed at the show. The digital counterparts of popular show features were embraced by the show’s online attendees, including the popular Marketing Trends programme. Here, virtual attendees gathered online to hear the latest market intelligence on the industry’s biggest trends.
Opening the 2022 Marketing Trends programme, Amy Rollinson, Research Analyst, Euromonitor International lead a season on the ‘Evolution of Sustainability in Beauty’ highlighting how the pandemic has ushered in a new era of sustainability and a heightened demand for morally aligned brands.
Meanwhile, Andrew McDougall, Associate Director – Global Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel revealed how technology is transforming transparency in beauty, as consumers adopt a more conscious approach to consumption. While Anne Charpentier, CEO, Skinobs, spoke about the evaluation of ingredients, actives and finished products, and how the world of testing is changing rapidly, influenced by global environmental responsibility and inspired by AI, virtual reality and 3D printing technologies.
On the virtual show floor, exhibitors returning from Paris were joined by those companies unable to attend in person. More than 4,400 attendees joined the show’s Virtual counterpart proving the popularity of the new hybrid approach, allowing for an extension of the in-person opportunities, and a chance to continue important business conversations.
Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director, in-cosmetics Global, said: “It has been wonderful to see the industry together again after so long apart – both face-to-face in Paris and online for the Virtual counterpart of in-cosmetics Global 2022. Throughout the three days in Paris, we saw such an enthusiasm and excitement to be back face-to-face, with the opportunity to source, test and try new ingredients in person, do business with new suppliers, and soak up the innovation that continues to propel the cosmetics and personal care industry into the future.
“The feedback from our exhibitors, visitors and partners has been overwhelmingly positive. This is highlighted in our record-breaking Net Promoter Score (NPS) for 2022 – the highest we’ve achieved in the event’s history. It proves just how valuable the show is to the industry and we’re delighted to have provided a platform for the cosmetics and personal care community to meet in person once again. It’s only made better by the opportunity to continue these conversations online during the Virtual element of our hybrid event, as exhibitors and visitors continued the important conversations started in Paris. We’re delighted to see so many of our exhibitors and visitors taking advantage of this new hybrid format, to discuss business opportunities and find out more about the latest ingredient launches.”
in-cosmetics Global returns to Barcelona in 2023 from 28-30 March. For more information visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/
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