Adding Bosein to body lotion is really useful or just a concept

Recently, L'Oreal has expanded its Bosein product line again, and launched a "Jinzhi Small Honey Pot Body Lotion" in early December.

Boseine is one of the hottest "anti-aging" star ingredients in the past two years. This cosmetic raw material independently developed by L'Oreal Group in 2006, in the past 16 years, L'Oreal can be said to have given full play to its value, and applied for more than 70 patents worldwide, which are used in multiple product lines of the group.

Helena, Yue Sai, SkinCeuticals, Lancome, Kiehl's, Maxi and many other brands under the L'Oreal Group all contain Bosein products, covering different price points and different concentrations. For example, Helena black bandage with 30% Bosein solution, Yue Sai’s 21% Bosein gilt cream, and L’Oreal purple iron with a concentration of less than 5%.

But this time L'Oreal's "Little Honey Pot Body Lotion" has received some controversy. In the promotion of the flagship store and the promotion of bloggers, the small honeypot body lotion puts the raw material Bosein in the front position, highlighting its anti-aging and anti-aging effects.

However, according to the filing information of this body lotion in the State Food and Drug Administration, the active ingredient in Bosein, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, ranks after phenoxyethanol in the ingredient list, while in cosmetics, phenoxyethanol The maximum concentration is 1%. This means that the concentration of Bosein in the Little Honey Pot Body Lotion is less than 1%.

Many consumers have questioned whether the concentration of Bosein's raw material group may be less than 1%, can it play a role in lightening lines and anti-aging?

The industry generally believes that the minimum onset dose of Bosein raw material group is 3%, and the minimum onset dose of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol is 1%, which is based on the clinical trial data of L’Oréal itself in 2016. Products with less than 1% can be said to be "conceptual" additions, and the mental value of consumers brought by the concept of ingredients may be greater than the actual efficacy.

At the same time, the description of "high concentration Boseine" was used in the product page of the small honey pot body lotion in L'Oreal's Tmall flagship store, which caused criticism from some consumers.

This 250ml small honey pot body lotion priced at 269 yuan is in the upper middle of the market. In the eyes of many consumers, "Boseine" seems to be more like a concept of increasing the premium when the amount of Boseine added is not much.

But from the perspective of the brand, a 269 yuan body lotion can't compare with thousands of yuan face cream because of its Bose content.

In the Tmall flagship store, the core function introduced in the product name of the small honeypot body lotion is still moisturizing. The anti-aging effect of Bosein is at best a icing on the cake for this body lotion, not the core effect.

According to the research caliber of companies such as L'Oreal this year, it is biased to judge the efficacy of a product based on the concentration and content of Bosein alone. Different concentrations are aimed at the needs of different consumers' skin; The actual absorption rate is more important.

According to Qiu Jie, Deputy Director of Communication in the Scientific Field of L'Oreal China R&D and Innovation Center, Bosein can exert different biological effects at different concentrations. Bosein is enough; if you continue to increase the concentration, you can achieve anti-aging effects, including improving skin firmness, elasticity, reducing wrinkles, etc.; if you need to achieve the skin repair effect of Bosein, you need to further increase the concentration.

For example, in 2015, when Helena’s black bandage was first launched in China, its positioning was not an anti-aging mask, but postoperative repair of micro-plastic surgery. The high concentration of Bosein can promote epidermal renewal and pass through the sensitive and red period, so it is named after it. It is a black bandage, which means it has a repairing effect like a bandage.

And in this little honey pot body lotion, very low concentration of Bosein can also achieve the effect of moisturizing and locking water, which is the same as the core function declared by the official.

In terms of absorption rate, Ma Rui, deputy director of skin care formula R&D at L'Oreal China R&D and Innovation Center, once publicly stated that the factors that determine the skin absorption rate are not only the physical and chemical properties of Bosein raw materials and the concentration of Bosein added in the product, but also formulation technology. important role. The added concentration of Bosein raw materials in the product is the same, but due to the difference in formula technology, the skin absorption rate is different, and the efficacy is also significantly different.

The ingredient formula may be the higher technological barriers accumulated by L'Oreal and others who have been deeply involved in Bosein research for many years. However, Bose is not too difficult due to the difficulty of preparing the core component itself.

According to Jiang Ligang, the former chief scientist of Proya, in the article "Physical and Chemical Analysis and Quality Consideration of Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol", since the core component of Bosein "hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol" is a very simple Compounds can be easily synthesized in the laboratory with the technology of Chinese enterprises today. But the real difficulty lies in the "yield" in the mass production process and the "purity" of the raw materials obtained.

Therefore, in recent years, many domestic cosmetics brands have also launched related products that add Boseine ingredients. For example, a velvet cream under Bloomage Bio Mibel directly indicates that it contains 15% Bosein.

Boseyin’s related domestic brands include HBN, Xiuzhiyan, Mega, MIXX, Yishi, Ganhualu, Touzhen, etc. Among them, the contents of Mega, MIXX, Yishi, Ganhualu, and Touzhen Bosein solutions all exceed 30%.

As of December 5, 2022, there have been 74 Bose non-appearance patent applications.

Where there is demand, there is supply. In addition, there is no uniform and recognized evaluation standard for the Bosein raw material group, which makes the prices and product quality of raw material suppliers uneven.

At present, Bosein sold on the market is mainly about 30% high-concentration aqueous solution and freeze-dried powder, and its price ranges from 1,000 to tens of thousands per kilogram. Search for hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol on 1688, and its products and manufacturers vary from good to bad.

Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol is a chemical raw material that is not difficult to synthesize. When it becomes the star "anti-aging" ingredient in cosmetics, it is foreseeable that due to the lack of standards and regulations, domestic glass Color-related cosmetics will begin to grow wildly.

"Is Boseine an IQ tax?" "Is low-concentration Boseine useful?" "How to define the use of different ratios and concentrations of Boseine?" There will be more and more of them.

At present, in the cosmetics market, more detailed publicity standards and professional science popularization are needed for the efficacy evaluation and content definition of Bosein.