Experts Discuss Ways To Ensure A Sustainable Future For Fragrance Industry

The fragrance industry was in the spotlight at the recently concluded CSIR-Industry Action Plan for Sustainable Development – INCITE 2018 – event held at CSIR-India Institute of Toxicology Research (IITR), Lucknow.

The event was organised jointly by CSIR-IITR, CSIR-Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants (CSIR-CIMAP), Fragrance & Flavour Development Centre, along with international organisations – Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM), and the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) – with Ultra International being the main industry partner.

The conference, attended by around 100 participants from research institutes, academia & fragrance & perfume industry, provided a platform to discuss various issues such as safety standards pertaining to fragrance materials, standardisation of products & implementation of harmonised regulations in the fragrance industry and the need for a roadmap for sustainable future of fragrance industries in the country.

Speaking at the event, Prof. Alok Dhawan, Director, CSIR-IITR underlined the need to carry out standardisation of fragrance materials and urged all stakeholders to cooperate in this mammoth task. Prof. Anil Kumar Tripathi, Director CSIR-CIMAP, spoke about the research activities undertaken by CIMAP and gave details about the low cost & high yielding varieties of aromatic crops developed by the institute. He made specific mention of ‘Early Mint Technology’, which uses less water for irrigation and has resulted in increased production of Mentha Arvensis. He stated that the technology has made Mentha Arvensis farming a more profitable business than ever before.

Dr. James Romine, President of RIFM informed about the different types of safety studies of fragrance materials being conducted by RIFM and urged institutes like IITR and CIMAP to collaborate in this exercise.

Mr. Michael Carlos, Chairman, IFRA, also emphasised the need for collaboration with Indian fragrance industry and regulators. “We are not here to impose restrictions or regulations but to help Indian government & industry to formulate a regulatory framework for fragrance materials,” he observed. Ms. Martina Bianchini, President IFRA spoke about the IFRA’s role in establishing science based safety standards for fragrance materials as well as implementing self-regulations in fragrance industry across many countries.

Mr. Sant Kumar Sanganeria, Founder Chairman & Managing Director, Ultra International and a driving force behind the conference, said that the fragrance industry is unique because of its interdependent & international character, historical origins & diversity and therefore sensitive to changes like emerging market trends, socio-economic changes, regulations etc. The key issue highlighted by him in his presentation included:

> Regulations & restrictions should be taken as opportunity to improve the quality and safety of products.

> Regulations not only make products safe but also drive innovations.

> Make substantial investment in R&D and create well trained human resources.

> Carry out standardisation of natural & synthetic aroma materials.

> Harmonise Indian industry with global safety & regulatory norms.

> Create platform where all stakeholders can interact to share their views.

> Tap on the non-utilised & underutilised natural resources.

> Promote farmers to cultivate aromatic crops.

> Collaboration between research institutes like IITR and IFRA & RIFM.

Standardisation and safety

During a panel discussion on ensuring value addition in fragrance industry through standardisation and safety’. Mr. Sanganeria emphasised the need to educate farmers – the backbone of essential oil & fragrance industry – to enable them to produce high quality essential oils. Ms. Bhuvana Nageshwaran, Director (F&F), Ultra International emphasised the industry’s responsibility in taking care of the farming community and to make them aware of hygienic practices during distillation of essential oils. Prof. Tripathi pointed out that standardisation and safety assessment is the need of the hour and Indian industry should welcome it with a positive frame of mind. Mr. Carlos noted that safety assessment added great value to a material and it makes a product globally acceptable.

In his concluding remarks, Prof. Dhawan said that with increased awareness, consumers have become very concerned about the safety of products and therefore it is right time for fragrance industry to accelerate the process of standardisation and safety assessment of fragrance ingredients. He said that the recommendation from the conference would be placed before the government authorities to pave way for effective regulations relevant to the fragrance industry.