Competing for the 'raw material' era, suppliers seize the Chinese market

The 2020 Nobel Prize in Chemistry will be announced soon. A breakdown of the winners over the years shows that the research results of the winners are of great practical significance, but most of their research work has been carried out more than ten years or even decades ago.

Similarly, although the cosmetics market trend and explosive products are accelerating iterative, the successful experience of countless excellent raw material manufacturers shows that high-quality raw materials, formulas, and processes require long-term precipitation, and the tuyere is not chased, but guarded.

For example, in 1989, Nagase Group Hayashibara established an industrial manufacturing method for highly stable vitamin C derivatives, and launched corresponding products under the trademark AA2G®. After decades of technical polishing, AA2G has become a hot Japanese whitening material this year, and is widely used in products of many international brands such as L'Oreal and Estee Lauder.

On September 21st, many high-quality companies such as Nagase Group, Teconobao, Quanli, and Barway made their debut at the Cosmetics News 2020 (Autumn) International Cosmetics e Expo high-quality supply chain special, sharing cutting-edge raw materials, formulas and processes.

Teconobao: the more daily plant raw materials, the more vitality

In recent years, Hyaluronic Acid has gradually grown into a star raw material in the cosmetics market, and the encounter between hyaluronic acid and cosmetics is thanks to one person-Shigeru Sawaki, the founder of Japanese functional raw material supplier Teconobao.

Sawaki Shigeru is known as the "father of hyaluronic acid beauty", and his research on hyaluronic acid began in college. In 1961, when the company was founded, Shigeru Sawaki brought hyaluronic acid into the cosmetics field and obtained related application patents. In the 1980s, environmentalism began to flourish. Japanese consumers preferred green and natural cosmetics. The company's development focus gradually shifted from organic synthetic materials to natural materials.

"The more common plant raw materials, the more vitality it is, and it is more conducive to protecting the ecology not to develop rare plants." Cherry blossoms in April, sky lilies in June, rice bran in September...Tecnobao rarely develops rare plants. Instead, he focused on the research of daily edible plant materials such as rice, barley, eggplant, and put forward the concept of four seasons.

In the live broadcast room, Teconobao displayed high-quality raw materials such as Osaka raw water eggplant with moisturizing and anti-aging effects, and lactic acid bacteria fermented rice without adding emulsifiers.

Nagase Group: Why is AA2G® favored by L'Oreal

This year, the concept of "morning C and night A" skin care is popular. Many vitamin C derivatives are sought after by consumers. AA2G (Chinese INCI name: ascorbyl glucoside) is the most influential one. Nagase Group Hayashibara is the creator of AA2G. The company's research and development of this material can be traced back to the 1980s.

For a long time, VC has played an important role in skin whitening. However, because VC is unstable and easy to oxidize, it is difficult to use in sunscreen products. To ensure that VC is stable and effective, researchers added a glucoside group to its active part Mission, AA2G was born.

In the e-Expo live room, Nagase Group · Hayashibara shared the latest data and use cases of AA2G. According to reports, as a stable vitamin C derivative, AA2G has whitening, sunscreen, and anti-aging effects. The main component is L-ascorbic acid 2 glucoside.

It is reported that the advantages of AA2G include the following three points.

1. High stability and qualitative, strong stability in aqueous solution, and relatively stable in high heat or metal ion environment.

2. It is not easy to color, and can inhibit color change during production or storage.

3. Vitamin C can be released by enzymes, which can exert long-term physiological effects in cells and tissues.

After decades of research and accumulation, AA2G has become one of the most well-known raw materials for VC derivatives and is favored by many cosmetic companies such as L'Oreal, Estee Lauder, Garan, and Shanghai Jahwa.

Ashland: Designing raw material solutions that consumers can understand

At the exhibition, Ashland Group, the world's leading raw material supplier, brought the latest bio-functional raw material-Natriance™ ageless.

After more than ten years of tracking research, Ashland found that skin aging involves multiple levels, specifically manifested in the changes in the epidermis, true epidermal junction layer, and dermis. Natriance™ ageless can target all levels of the skin and improve the four aspects of the skin. This kind of iconic Collagen content restores the skin’s youthful and healthy state.

In order to meet the needs of the ingredient party to trace upstream raw materials, Ashland designed a visual effect map for the new raw materials to help consumers understand product characteristics through easy-to-understand efficacy labels. According to reports, Natriance™ ageless supports the development of minimalist formulas. It is a biodegradable raw material and contains high proportions of ingredients such as marine collagen oligopeptides, red seaweed extract, natural fermented erythritol and RSPO glycerin.

In addition to Natriance™ ageless, Ashland also brought Optiphen™ GP, a Preservative for sensitive skin products. The raw material has the advantages of colorless, fragrance-free, broad-spectrum antibacterial, and easy to use in aqueous formulations. In tests conducted by subjects in Asia and other regions, Optiphen™ GP did not report skin sensitivity and contact sensitization. According to reports, the ingredients of Optiphen™ GP have been included in the "List of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" in China.

In addition to the above-mentioned raw material companies, high-quality foundry companies such as Nosbel, Barway, Quanli, and Weibo Haitai also exhibited many leading technology products at the e Expo.

This year, the sales of freeze-dried facial masks such as Yuze and Herborist have continued to increase. As the actual manufacturer of Herborist's many freeze-dried facial masks, Weibo Haitai has the isol freeze-drying forming technology. According to reports, this technology allows the product to be placed in an ultra-low temperature environment of -196°, maximizing the preservation of active ingredients and achieving the ultimate safety of the product.

In the market, a high-quality raw material and process requires continuous basic research and deep insight into the consumer market. At the exhibition, Quanli, a well-known domestic OEM company, brought a rose extract water extracted with small molecule technology. This product comes from Quanli's rose base covering an area of nearly 1,000 acres. According to reports, Quanli’s purpose for establishing a rose planting and picking base is very clear: in order to make the raw materials traceable, ensure safety and give them a sense of story.

Currently, there are more than 8,700 cosmetic raw materials that can be used in my country, and the revision and implementation of new regulations such as the "Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations" will speed up the efficiency of raw material application approval. Companies seizing the domestic market, driven by the supply chain, Chinese beauty brands will usher in more opportunities for differentiated competition.