EU agency finds around 6% of cosmetics contain banned chemicals

A pilot enforcement project found that around 6% of cosmetics tested contained hazardous substances banned under European regulations, the European Chemicals Agency said in a statement on October 30.

National enforcement agencies in 13 European Economic Area (EEA) member states, including Germany, checked nearly 4,500 cosmetics and found that 285 of them contained banned substances, the European Chemicals Agency said.

Investigators were looking for a range of chemicals banned or restricted under EU regulations, the POPs Regulation, which bans persistent organic pollutants, and the REACH Regulation, which regulates the registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of chemicals.

The European Chemicals Agency said that most of the tests conducted by its pilot project between November 2023 and April 2024 used very simple methods. “Checks are mainly carried out by checking ingredient lists – measures that are also easily accessible to consumers, who should be aware that restricted substances are found in different types of cosmetics, from different sellers and at different prices.”

ECHA said the enforcement agency has taken some initial steps to remove non-compliant products from the market. “In most cases, the first step is to issue written guidance with advice to suppliers on how to comply with the law. At the time of writing, around half of the cases were still under investigation,” ECHA said.

The Helsinki-based group looks for signs of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), long-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (PFCA) and their related substances, and cyclic siloxanes D4 and D5.

Perfluorononyl dimethicone, which degrades into PFOA and PFCA, is often found in pencil and crayon eyeliners and lipliners, while D4 and D5 are often found in conditioners and masks, the study said.

The European Chemicals Agency said: "PFOA and siloxanes D4 and D5 break down slowly in the environment and accumulate in humans and other species. PFOA is not only persistent in the environment, but is also toxic to the reproductive system and a possible carcinogen. D4 may also impair fertility."