Functional Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Deep Nourishing Anti-Oxidation Facial Care Material

1. Description

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an esterified vitamin C derivative obtained by esterifying ascorbic acid with isopalmitic acid. Its molecular formula is C₇₀H₁₂₈O₁₀, with a molecular weight of approximately 1129.76 Da. This compound is a colorless to pale yellow viscous, oily liquid with lipophilic properties and is soluble in organic solvents such as DMF and DMSO. As one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives currently available, its core advantage lies in its transdermal absorption capacity resulting from its lipophilic modification—it can be enzymatically hydrolyzed within the skin to release free vitamin C, thereby exerting its biological functions. It must be stored at -20°C in a light-protected, sealed container; the powder form has a shelf life of 3 years, while the solvent-dissolved formulation can be stored at -80°C for 6 months. In terms of chemical structure, it is important to note that this is a different substance from Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, which is esterified with 2-hexyl decanoate.

2. Application

(1) Cosmetic Ingredients: As a functional ingredient for skin brightening and anti-aging, it is widely used in skincare products such as serums, creams, lotions, and face masks.

(2) Antioxidant Products: Added to antioxidant skincare lines to prevent UV-induced skin damage and lipid peroxidation.

(3) Skin-Brightening Products: Used in functional products designed to inhibit melanin production, brighten skin tone, and fade dark spots.

(4) Anti-Aging Formulations: Acts as a collagen booster in performance-driven products formulated to reduce wrinkles, firm the skin, and delay skin aging.

(5) Research Applications: Serves as a model compound for vitamin C derivatives in studies on skin-brightening mechanisms, antioxidant pathways, and transdermal absorption.

3. Main Efficacy

(1) Inhibits melanin synthesis: By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, it reduces melanin production, lightens existing pigmentation, and brightens the skin.

(2) Promotes collagen synthesis: It activates collagen tissue in the skin’s basal layer, accelerating collagen production, thereby reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity and firmness.

(3) Antioxidant protection: Scavenges free radicals, prevents damage to skin cells caused by oxidative stress factors such as UV rays, and protects cellular DNA from oxidative attacks.

(4) Anti-inflammatory effects: Reduces the production of pro-inflammatory factors such as interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) induced by UV rays or oxidative stress, thereby alleviating skin inflammatory responses.

(5) Photoprotective Effects: In keratinocyte models, it prevents the decline in cell viability caused by UVB, protecting cells from photodamage.

(6) Improvement of the Skin Barrier: Topical application increases the thickness of the active layer of the epidermis, the water content of the stratum corneum, and skin smoothness, while reducing skin roughness and improving overall skin health.