L'Oréal Enters Exclusive Partnership for Revolutionary 'Air Only' Fragrance Extraction

L'Oréal has joined forces with Cosmo International Fragrances to gain exclusive access to the fragrance creation company's groundbreaking 'air only' extraction technology.

L’Oréal signs deal for ‘air only’ extracted natural fragrance ingredients
Credit: Cosmetics Business

Cosmo's patent-pending process represents a waterless, energy-efficient extraction technique that unveils the precise aroma of a fragrance while safeguarding its authenticity. This innovative technology captures the volatile fragrance molecules of flowers, fruits, and other natural ingredients without resorting to traditional scent extraction methods involving heating, cooling, or chemical solvents.

According to Cosmo, this approach ensures that natural ingredients maintain their integrity, allowing for recycling and reuse in a subsequent extraction, contributing to waste reduction.

The initial collaboration under this partnership will center on tuberose for an upcoming fine fragrance set for launch in 2024.

Barbara Lavernos, Deputy Chief Executive Officer overseeing Research, Innovation, and Technology at L'Oréal, highlighted how this process enables the company's 100-plus in-house fragrance experts to "experience the olfactive power of flowers authentically, as if strolling through a garden, field, or forest."

Cyril Chapuy, President of L'Oréal Luxe, emphasized the significance of achieving true-to-life scents, describing it as a perfumer's dream. He expressed confidence that, in collaboration with Cosmo International Fragrances, their brands would elevate fine fragrance crafting by providing unparalleled olfactive authenticity, enabling natural ingredients to fully express their unique olfactive identity.

Chapuy further stated, "From ingredient sourcing to refill adoption, we are innovating at every step to reduce our impact and transition toward a more responsible fragrance model."

L'Oréal has a history of partnering with pioneers in beauty ingredient development. In June, the cosmetics giant announced a minority investment by its venture capital fund BOLD (Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development) in biotech firm Debut, extending existing development plans. Debut specializes in polyphenols, biopolymers, and natural colors through advanced, cell-free biomanufacturing, surpassing the limitations of traditional fermentation processes.

In March, L'Oréal invested in a venture led by Korean biotechnology firm Geno, focusing on sustainable alternatives to key beauty product ingredients. Towards the end of the previous year, BOLD acquired a minority stake in Microphyt, a French biotech firm renowned for pioneering a low-carbon process in microalgae production.