Clariant launches CycloRetin as plant-based alternative to retinol and bakuchiol

At in-cosmetics 2024, Clariant competes with CycloRetin, a cyclic peptide extracted from Pseudostellaria heterophylla. CycloRetin is Clariant’s alternative to traditional retinol and bakuchiol, a material derived from Pseudostellariae heterophylla. This adaptogenic plant is grown in China and used in traditional medicine. It is the only plant known to produce Pseudostellaria heterophylla B, a peptide with a cyclic structure that has high biological activity, stability and enhanced properties.

According to Clariant, CycloRetin increases intracellular levels of retinol converting enzyme and retinol receptors, optimizing retinol pathway homeostasis and resulting in better utilization of intracellular retinol.

“By optimizing the use of intracellular retinol by cells, CycloRetin does not trigger the irritation response that occurs with topical retinol,” Clariant claims.

In vitro studies have shown that CycloRetin enhances the biological functions of fibroblasts and reactivates the expression of genes responsible for collagen and elastin production.

Additionally, CycloRetin strengthens epidermal structure by activating genes for skin barrier function and hydration.

A clinical study also showed that CycloRetin works faster than retinol in reducing wrinkles.

Ultimately, two clinical studies were conducted to demonstrate the efficacy of CycloRetin relative to placebo and bakuchiol. The new active ingredient is superior to bakuchiol in terms of sagging and has similar effects in terms of skin firmness and skin radiance.

"While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our lab, we discovered that Pseudostellariae heterophylla has great potential to restart the skin matrix production cycle. The peptides are highly effective even at low concentrations and play a vital role in supporting the appearance of youthful skin,” concludes Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager Active Ingredients and Natural Sources at Clariant.