Shiseido's first application of 'autophagy substitution' in cosmetics

Through joint research with Tokyo Medical and Dental University, Shiseido has applied the special reaction mechanism "autophagy substitution" (1) of cells in the human body to the cosmetics field for the first time, transforming skin cells from the inside into a healthy state, and found good support A new method of cell viability. In addition, it was also found that the extract of camellia seeds has the effect of promoting the activation of autophagy substitution.

Part of the results of this research will be published in "Cell Symposia-Multifaceted Mitochondria" (2020/11, Spain).

(1): Unlike general autophagy, autophagy substitution is a newly discovered special reaction mechanism that occurs when cells are overly damaged. It plays an important role in maintaining the health of healthy cells, so it has attracted attention. For details, see "Newly Discovered Alternatives to Autophagy with Special Response Mechanisms" below.

Our skin is composed of epidermal cells that act as a barrier and fibroblasts that produce collagen. Normal cell activity is essential for healthy and beautiful skin. When cell activity decreases due to aging or UV damage, the structure of the skin is disturbed, resulting in rough skin, wrinkles and sagging. This time, Shiseido focused on studying mitochondria, the organelles that are the source of cell energy production and cell activity. Mitochondria are organelles inside cells that produce energy (ATP) required for cell activities. There are 300-400 mitochondria in a cell, which divide and fuse continuously to maintain the balance of biological activities. However, it is known that when the mitochondria are damaged due to aging or ultraviolet light, the ability of the mitochondria to produce ATP is reduced, and it releases reactive oxygen species (ROS) that have an adverse effect on the body.

In organisms, there is a mechanism called autophagy (2), which can break down and process organelles such as mitochondria. Autophagy plays an important role in the intracellular purification and stress response of metabolism, and promotes the reorganization of intracellular tissues. Autophagy is carried out every day, for example, mitochondria that have deteriorated function rebuild themselves and restore their functions through this mechanism.

(2): "Autophagy", which means "to eat yourself", was proposed by Dr. Christian René de Duve (won the Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 1974). Then, in 1992, Dr. Osumi Yoshinori clarified this mechanism. Dr. Osumi won the Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 2016 for his “discovery of the mechanism of autophagy”.


Autophagy substitution: a newly discovered special response mechanism

Professor Shimizu Shigemori of Tokyo Medical and Dental University found that unlike autophagy that reorganizes intracellular tissues daily, autophagy substitution is a special response mechanism. It occurs when cells are excessively damaged, such as when DNA is damaged due to ultraviolet light. This mechanism is produced by a completely different mechanism from known autophagy and is called autophagy replacement (3). Autophagy substitution also plays a role in problems that cannot be solved under normal injury and stress, and can promote the reorganization of intracellular tissues. As a special reaction mechanism, it has attracted people's attention.

Through joint research with Tokyo Medical University Dental University, Shiseido successfully applied this new mechanism to the cosmetics field for the first time. At the same time, it was found that the extract of camellia seeds has the effect of promoting the activation of autophagy substitution in skin cells. This means that the camellia seed extract can make skin cells healthy from the inside and restore their original energy, so that beautiful skin is full of vitality. In the future, Shiseido will use the results of this research to develop a skin care product that will brighten the skin from the inside in a new way.