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    Home > Chemial News > Cosmetics Industry News > Inventory of star cosmetics raw materials and the representative raw material suppliers behind

    Inventory of star cosmetics raw materials and the representative raw material suppliers behind

    Echemi 2021-04-12

    More than 30 years of development and transformation, from family-style workshops to large-scale and standardized production, from basic survival to consideration of higher-level core competitiveness, from false propaganda concept marketing to speaking with efficacy data, and China has become the world's second largest The cosmetics consumer market is enough to prove the vigorous development of my country's cosmetics industry.


    With the advancement of my country's cosmetics industry, there is also the continuous influx of foreign-funded enterprises, from brands, to OEM/ODM, to raw material suppliers, all trying to gain a foothold in this blue ocean market. Especially for the raw material industry chain that emphasizes research and development and science, if China’s cosmetics industry started late and has little accumulation, there is a large gap between domestic and foreign raw materials, and international raw material suppliers occupy a dominant position. However, with the continuous development of my country’s scientific research and technology level in recent years As for the promotion, there are also some local raw material suppliers who have deep expertise and achievements in a certain field.

     

    By virtue of their small and beautiful boutique route, they focus on the research and development and promotion of raw materials in a certain field, and they have also gained the ability to compete with foreign companies, and have won the favor and blessing of many well-known brands. In fact, at the PCHI held in Shenzhen this year, this phenomenon and trend has been very obvious, and the competition between domestic and foreign raw material markets is bound to become more intense.

     

    So, at the moment of strength competition, who are the representative raw material vendors behind these star raw materials?

     

    01

    AA2G

    Representative company: Hayashibara International

     

    Vitamin C can be said to be a well-known nutrient. Many foods and fruits are rich in vitamin C to supplement the needs of the human body. In addition to oral administration, vitamin C in cosmetics also has excellent performance on human skin, which can promote The production of collagen plays an anti-aging effect, especially its ability to inhibit the formation of melanin and reduce melanin, making it stand out among a series of whitening ingredients.

     

    However, when vitamin C is used in cosmetic formulations, it also faces many challenges, such as heat, oxidation, reaction with metal ions and other commonly used ingredients in cosmetics, etc., which can easily make it lose its biological activity.

     

    However, it is reported that Japan’s Hayashibara International, which has a history of more than 100 years, cooperated with a well-known chemist to synthesize a new substance from vitamin C and glucose with a new type of enzyme preparation. This substance forms a special The stable vitamin C is called L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside. This vitamin C derivative, called AA2G for short, has excellent formula stability, can essentially inhibit discoloration and degradation, while retaining all biological activities to achieve brightening and whitening, resistance to ultraviolet radiation and anti-aging effects. AA2G is also an internationally recognized safe whitening active ingredient. For example, Estee Lauder Skin Light Bottle, L'Oreal Rwvitalift Rejuvenating Double Tube Essence Milk, etc., are all added with this ingredient.

    02

    VC-IP

    Representative company: Nikko Chemical

     

    If AA2G is the representative of the water-soluble components of vitamin C derivatives, then VC-IP (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) can be regarded as an oil-soluble masterpiece.

     

    Previously, the public account "Formulator Rex" made a relatively comprehensive analysis of this raw material. He said that, compared with most vitamin C derivatives, VC-IP is not only oil-soluble, but also oil-soluble. A special point is the large molecular weight, which is 6.4 times that of the prototype dimension C.

     

    It is reported that the main reason for making its structure larger is to enhance the stability of dimension C. VC-IP can directly use two super-long isopalmitic acid structures and the above hydroxyl groups to undergo an esterification reaction, and the other two hydroxyl groups can also react together. Therefore, its stability also allows it to function perfectly whether it is used in essence, lotion, cream and other formulations.

     

    In addition, in terms of the ability to convert VC-IP into vitamin C, Nikko Chemical conducted corresponding research in 2009 and found that when cells were cultured with VC-IP or prototype vitamin C at the same time, the former had a higher vitamin C content, and Compared with the classic vitamin C glycosides, VC-IP has better transdermal performance.

     

    Recently, the very windy Marumei Diamond Light Bottle is the main VC-IP, claiming to be a patented melanin grinder, which can inhibit the production of melanin, interrupt the transmission of melanin and accelerate its metabolism, and it is also a patented raw material of Nikko Chemistry.

     

    03

    Tremella polysaccharide

    Representative enterprise: Shanghai Huiwen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

     

    Tremella polysaccharide is a plant-derived hyaluronic acid substance with a molecular weight of 1 to 1.3 million. It is a plant-derived high-efficiency moisturizer and can improve the stability of cosmetics and reduce interfacial tension. It is often used in various skin care cosmetics. Play the role of repairing the skin and increasing the moisture of the superficial skin.

     

    Speaking of Tremella polysaccharides, Huiwen Biology must be mentioned. Among the domestic raw material suppliers, they are one of the few companies that can conduct technical dialogues with major international cosmetics brands, and they are also the first domestic company that sells formulas and is the first to apply for international patents for cosmetic functional substances. Huiwen has established cooperation with more than 900 cosmetics customers at home and abroad, among which more than 50 international first-line brands have established cooperation. The reporter had the honor to visit before, and then heard the industry repeatedly mention that it is a recognized supplier of high-quality Tremella polysaccharides in the industry.

    It is reported that they mainly provide two kinds of polysaccharide functional materials: WSK Tremella heteropolysaccharide and Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide. The texture is powdery, which is convenient for transportation and saves the cost of packaging materials. On the other hand, the purity is extremely high. Compared with the liquid polysaccharides on the market, many preservatives are added in order to maintain the quality, and the powdered polysaccharides make up for this deficiency, and the concentration is very high. Huiwen’s WSK Tremella heteropolysaccharide products are inspected for 878 pesticide residues in Japan every year, and the cost of testing is also a considerable expense.

     

    04

    Glycyrrhizin

    Representative companies: Panzhihua Pharmaceutical, American Maifu

     

    Panzhihua Pharmaceutical is a company established in 1995 focusing on the research and development, production, processing and sales of licorice and its plant extracts. They are relatively leading and high-quality in the field of licorice raw materials in China and even in the world.

     

    Take the commonly used raw material dipotassium glycyrrhizinate in anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic products. It is extracted and purified from licorice root. Its molecular structure has the effect of hormones, but it does not have the side effects of hormones and will not cause consumers to become dependent. , This is a very special place of the raw material. From the technological point of view, the raw material changed from licorice to acid powder and monoammonium salt in the 1990s to directly supplement potassium, to the second generation of monoammonium glycyrrhizinate in ethanol to exchange the ammonium ions, and then to Nowadays, ion exchange in water has fewer impurities and lower irritation. In terms of technology, it is reported that only one Japanese company abroad can implement this technology.

    There is also stearyl glycyrrhetinate, which was first developed in Japan and has also obtained a patent certificate in the domestic pan-physical pharmacy. In fact, in the field of licorice, Panzhihua Pharmaceutical is actually doing a good job in China. In 2018, the company also took the lead in drafting the group standard of "Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate and Glycyrrhetinic Acid for Oral Cleaning Care Products Toothpaste" and "Materials for Cosmetic "Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate" group standard.

     

    In addition, according to industry insiders, McFoo USA is also the largest manufacturer of licorice products in the world, focusing on the development and production of premium licorice extracts and licorice derivatives. However, the reporter didn't know much about its products, so I won't repeat them too much.

     

    05

    Astaxanthin

    Representative company: Fuji Chemical

     

    Astaxanthin is one of the most popular ingredients in recent years and belongs to a kind of carotenoid. With its excellent properties, it is widely used in various cosmetics such as creams and emulsions. Especially in the field of high-end cosmetics, natural astaxanthin with its unique molecular structure, through its powerful antioxidant effect, resists free radicals caused by ultraviolet rays, prevents skin photoaging, reduces UVA and UVB damage to the skin, and reduces skin wrinkles , Reduce melanin deposition, etc.

    Compared with VC, whose antioxidant capacity is better than astaxanthin?

     

    According to research conducted by Fujifilm, Japan, from the data point of view, the value of astaxanthin against singlet oxygen is much higher than that of VC, and its antioxidant capacity is about 6000 times that of VC. However, anti-oxidation is a more complicated subject. The influence of various factors. To say that astaxanthin is a raw material with in-depth research, it must be Japan's Fuji Chemical.

     

    It is reported that Japan's Fuji Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. has more than 20 years of research in the field of astaxanthin, and the AstaReal astaxanthin products produced by the US FDA and GRAS certification are the only astaxanthin brand included in the US Pharmacopoeia. In 1994, AstaReal Group used Haematococcus pluvialis as a raw material for the first time in the world to successfully industrially produce astaxanthin. Until now, AstaReal has been widely recognized and used worldwide.

     

    06

    Fullerene

    Representative company: Mitsubishi of Japan

     

    Fullerene, which has become popular in China's beauty industry in recent years, has been popular in Japan and Taiwan for a few years. It is a hollow molecule composed of carbon, with a spherical, ellipsoidal, cylindrical or tubular shape. Compared with antioxidants such as vitamin C and tea polyphenols, the antioxidant mechanism of fullerene is different. It acts as a catalyst to convert superoxide anions into oxygen molecules and combine with free radicals to achieve its efficacy. It can be said that fullerene is a strong anti-oxidant and anti-aging ingredient known in the scientific community, and it is even known as the "free radical killer" and the diamond-level "anti-aging king" in the skin care industry.

     

    In addition, the stability of fullerenes is unmatched by many raw materials. For example, we all know that A is early and C is late. Vitamin C is prone to unstable failure when exposed to light, but the structure of fullerene determines its stability. , Not affected by ultraviolet light, light and heat.

     

    The world's most famous raw material for fullerene is the VC60 Biological Laboratory under the Mitsubishi Consortium of Japan. It is reported that the fullerene concentration reaches 1% to be effective, and if the addition amount in the formula reaches 1%, the patent icon of Mitsubishi's "free radical sponge" can be used.

     

    07

    Bosein

    Representative enterprise: Huzhou Purui Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.

     

    As L'Oréal's leader, Huadan Bossein, due to the patent protection period, many domestic companies have aimed at this opportunity, launched "domestic Bossein", and formed a market full of flowers.

     

    The serious trade name of Bosein is Pro-Xylane, which is derived from the plant beech. This tree is rich in xylose. Bosein is the C-glycoside anti-aging active molecule of beech xylose. It has the ability to activate skin GAG (sugar). Aminoglycans), and GAG can promote the production and construction of proteoglycans in the dermis, thereby increasing the firmness of cells and skin. In addition, GAG has another special function, which is to participate in the work of signal transmission between cells, send messages to young cells, and re-stimulate aging cells to fully synthesize collagen.

     

    But Bose is actually not that complicated because of this ingredient. It is a raw material group composed of "water + propylene glycol + hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol". The real anti-aging effect is also hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyridine. Trantriol, which has a concentration of more than 30% in L'Oreal's Bose.

     

    At present, brands such as Mibeil, Daisy Sky, Letters from Kasuga, etc. are the main brands that use "domestic Bosein", as well as Huanya Group, Marumi, and other industry giants such as Cosmic, Intercox, etc. Use domestic Bosein.

     

    It is reported that the Bosein of the above brands and products are all from Huzhou Purui Pharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd. It is reported that this company is also the first domestic raw material supplier to launch "Bosein", using "Purein®" as the domestic glass Seyin's registered trademark has been dug into the raw material by many industry official accounts and Weibo experts. In terms of structure, Puruiin® is a raw material group composed of "water + hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol + pentanediol + hexanediol". It is obvious that whether it is the principle of action or the source of extraction, it can be said to be a replica The "Bosein" is correct.

     

    In fact, in addition to the "domestic Bose factor", Purui Biotech, as a cross-border raw material supplier for a pharmaceutical company, also has certain advantages in nano-encapsulation. Nano-encapsulated AA ester and nano-encapsulated HPR have all won honors. Grid Technology Innovation Award. Many well-known brands and processing plants are also its customers.

     

    08

    Ceramide

    Representative companies: Evonik of Germany, Doosan of South Korea

     

    Ceramide is a part of the skin's natural barrier system, which will be gradually lost due to external stimuli and aging. When the barrier gradually weakens, it is easy to form sensitive muscles. Direct supplementation of ceramide is the most efficient way to repair.

     

    Therefore, ceramide, as the latest generation of moisturizer developed in recent years, is a water-soluble lipid substance, which is similar in structure to the material that constitutes the stratum corneum. It can quickly penetrate into the skin and combine with the water in the stratum corneum to form A net-like structure that locks in moisture. Ceramide is composed of sphingosine long-chain bases and a fatty acid. Different combinations of sphingosine bases and fatty acids form different ceramides.

     

    Germany's Evonik and South Korea's Doosan can be said to be two of the world's leading manufacturers of fermented ceramides. It is understood that in addition to the difference in technology, the two companies have the same substrates for other bacterial species, and each holds patents. For example, the ceramides used in Bishengzhiyan, Haa, and Marumi are derived from Evonik; while the ceramides used by Eucerin, Laneige, Proya and Dr.JART+ are derived from Doosan, South Korea.

     

    09

    Centella

    Representative company: Sybic

     

    When counting the top ten raw materials in 2018, some fans left a message suggesting that Centella asiatica extract should be included, which shows the status of Centella asiatica extract in the cosmetics circle. L'Oreal Paris Rejuvenation Series, Skin Refining B5, Sisley All-in-One Lotion, etc., all contain this raw material.

     

    my country has a long history of using Centella asiatica. The famous ancient book "Shen Nong's Materia Medica" has recorded the medicinal effects of Centella asiatica on clearing away heat, detoxifying, removing dampness and swelling. With the advancement of technology and the love of beauty that everyone has, Centella asiatica extract has been widely used in skin care, cosmetics and other fields. It can have a good soothing and repairing effect on the skin.

     

    A research report on Centella asiatica was published in the Indian Journal of Medicine. The report mentioned that Centella asiatica extract contains no caffeine or other irritating ingredients and can be applied to almost any skin type and skin condition. Moreover, the Centella asiatica extract obtained by high-purity extraction technology has a more obvious repair effect on the skin dermis. Technically, it overcomes the disadvantages of asiaticoside instability and easy inactivation, and greatly improves the transdermal efficiency of asiaticoside.

     

    SEPPIC of France is the world's largest supplier of Centella asiatica raw materials. According to industry insiders, they provide the highest quality of raw materials. According to the official statement, as early as seventy years ago, Cybic Company developed the active ingredient of Centella asiatica from Madagascar with its deep expertise in plant extraction. It is rich in triterpene molecules, stable in composition, and has high purity. And the company has a combination of active ingredients based on Centella Asiatica, which can provide corresponding solutions specifically for different skin needs.

     

    10

    Nicotinamide

    Representative company: Lonza, Switzerland

     

    Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is the biologically active form of niacin, widely seen in many plants and animals, and it is also a cofactor

    An important precursor of NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). Together with reduced NADH and NADPH, they act as coenzymes in more than 40 biochemical reactions and act as antioxidants. As a water-soluble substance, nicotinamide has solution stability and light stability. In a solution with a pH of 6, the stability is the best.

    Niacinamide has many functions such as good whitening, anti-aging, moisturizing, and improving skin barrier, coupled with brand promotion, it can be said to be widely used in the cosmetics industry. However, because nicotinamide itself has a certain irritation, its added amount in the product has been kept below 5%.

     

    The representative raw material supplier of niacinamide is LONZA, which is regarded as the world's largest manufacturer of niacinamide. In 1995, Swiss Lonza Co., Ltd. established a wholly-owned cooperative company in Guangzhou, with a total investment of 38 million US dollars, covering an area of 35,000 square meters. The main product is vitamin nicotinamide (vitamin B3), which is exported to all over the world. It is a global nicotinamide. The main supplier of the company.

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