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    Home > Chemial News > Cosmetics Industry News > "Small dose, great effect" cosmetic ingredients inventory

    "Small dose, great effect" cosmetic ingredients inventory

    Echemi 2020-09-30

    Recently, the State Food and Drug Administration issued the "Heavy | "Cosmetics Labeling Management Measures (Draft for Comment)". A large number of products need to be repackaged? The regulations on "other micro-ingredients" have triggered the industry's conceptual additions. discuss.

    Many people in the industry have reported that there are many ingredients that are less than 0.1% (w/w) can have a good effect, and some ingredients can even play a role at the ppm level (parts per million). So which ingredients can express their effects with the addition of trace amounts? Today, we will come to a plate of those "small doses, great effects" ingredients.


    Niacinamide, as a well-known whitening ingredient for consumers in recent years, also benefits from the promotion and marketing of OLAY small white bottles. Whitening products containing niacinamide have also become the first choice of many consumers for whitening.

    It is generally believed that niacinamide can be used in cosmetics to whiten, remove freckles, repair skin barrier, anti-aging, and reduce pores. However, niacinamide also has its shortcomings. The impurity component in the raw material-niacin, can cause skin irritation. Some consumers may have redness and other allergies when using products with high content of niacinamide, which is often said Nicotinamide intolerance problem.

    According to industry insiders, niacinamide is more effective, but in some cases, in order to reduce the risk of human skin intolerance, the amount of niacinamide added in cosmetics will be less than 0.1%.

    Commonly used products on the market that contain niacinamide include most products of the Olay brand, Fuli Fangsi moisturizing and repairing series, sheung shui and muscle salicylic acid anti-acne toner.


    Glycyrrhizin is a kind of flavonoids, extracted from a precious plant called Glycyrrhiza glabra. It is called "whitening gold" because of its powerful whitening effect. It can eliminate free radicals and melanin in the skin and can be used for skin whitening. And anti-aging, 0.1% addition amount can play a very good whitening effect.

    This ingredient is added to many whitening products. The formula of Ou Shiman Xiaobaideng is a combination of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and other whitening ingredients.


    In recent years, many brands have promoted the antioxidant ingredient "EUK-134". It is said that the price of raw materials is 300,000 yuan/kg, which is more expensive than gold. The official Chinese name of "EUK-134" is: ethyl bisimino methyl guaiacol manganese chloride, which is a small artificially synthesized molecule that can directly enter the skin to play a role.

    Euk-134 is expensive, but a small amount of addition can achieve good results. Generally, the recommended amount is 0.01%-0.05%. This ingredient is used in many products of Estee Lauder, Aquamarine Mystery, and Clinique. This ingredient is also added to the domestic brands to this multi-benefit series of products.

    The EUK high-efficiency antioxidant essence launched by The Ordinary, known as the "raw material barrel", continues its style. The addition amount is 0.1%, which is a high concentration addition.


    Astaxanthin is a carotenoid from natural sources. It is orange-red in color. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and free radical scavenging effects. It is a natural antioxidant. In the past, astaxanthin essence became a "net celebrity" product under the popular science recommendation and brand marketing of many cosmetic ingredients.

    Many new domestic brands including Yi Fei, Bio-meso, Kasuga Letter, Chuangyan and Toozhen have launched astaxanthin essence. Astaxanthin is also used in Proya Boosting and Brightening Youth Essence and High-Posture Luminous Rejuvenating Essence.


    Ectoin is an amino acid derivative, which is an extreme enzyme component. When used in cosmetics, it can play a good role in moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation, repairing, and anti-aging. It is expensive. The powerful effect of Ectorine is also a star ingredient sought after by the industry and consumers. As an active ingredient, the raw material of Ectoin contains water. The actual amount of Ectoin may be less than 0.1%, which can also express its efficacy.

    Many products under Huaxi Biology have added this ingredient. Swiss sunscreen brand Ultrasun has added ectoine to many products and regarded it as a major selling point.


    Fullerene is the ingredient that won the Nobel Prize. Manufacturers of fullerene raw materials used in cosmetics are mainly Japanese companies, and fullerene is also an ingredient that Japanese brands are keen to add in the past two years. Fullerenes have been proven to have anti-aging and anti-oxidant effects by absorbing free radicals in the human body, and are hailed as "retrograde of time" and "free radical killer" by the skin care industry. The effective concentration of expensive fullerenes can even be as low as 2 ppm.

    At present, most of the major fullerene brands on the market are Japanese brands, including Dr.Ci:Labo and TUNEMAKERS, which have launched fullerene essence. Some domestic niche brands have also launched related products.


    As the core anti-aging ingredient of the L'Oréal Group, Bosein can be said to be made into a top lady ingredient. Helena Black and White Bandage Cream mainly uses 30% Bosein. The research of L'Oréal Group proves that Bose has good anti-aging and repairing effects.

    Bosein's products run through the product line of the L'Oréal Group, from the high-end Helena to the mid-to-high-end Xiu Like, to Vichy and L'Oreal Paris. As the price drops, the concentration also decreases.

    However, the concentration mentioned here is the concentration of the added active ingredient solution. In fact, the concentration of Bose is not the case.

    Blue copper peptide

    The amino acid group of the blue copper peptide small molecule is a substance that naturally exists in the human body, and is essentially a peptide. It can have a good repair and anti-aging effect when used in cosmetics. As a peptide component, the effective concentration of blue copper peptide is generally calculated in ppm.

    Many consumers recognize that the blue copper peptide is the SNOWBERRY blue copper peptide extract from a niche brand in New Zealand. In addition, La Roche-Posay and CSS Xie Yan Shi also launched blue copper peptide essence.

    Acetyl hexapeptide-8 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

    The same is a peptide ingredient. The acetyl hexapeptide-8 used by Estée Lauder Group and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 commonly used by L'Oreal Group are effective at a few or tens of ppm. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is mainly used to reduce dynamic lines and expression lines. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is often used as a skin conditioner, antioxidant and moisturizer in cosmetics.

    In addition to the products commonly used by Estee Lauder Group and L'Oreal Group, other brands of Proya, A.H.C, Marumi and other anti-aging products are also used.

    Vitamin A ingredients

    The popularity of morning C night A skin care concept has brought many anti-aging brands from Europe and the United States into the public eye. Vitamin A ingredients A alcohol and retinol have become the most sought after anti-wrinkle and anti-aging "goods" in the market. It is understood that the effective concentration of retinol is about 0.05-0.075%. The high efficiency of vitamin A ingredients in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging also means side effects such as peeling, redness and sensitivity. In order to balance the effects and side effects, many products do not add more than 0.1%.

    As an entry-level product of A alcohol, I have to mention Neutrogena A alcohol night cream. La Roche-Posay, Murad, Arden, Proya and other brands all have essence products containing vitamin A ingredients.

    In addition to the above ingredients, there are many ingredients in the cosmetics raw material catalog that can express their efficacy if the addition amount is less than 0.1%. The existence of cosmetic formulators is to allow multiple ingredients to achieve the target effect under the appropriate dosage. The amount of a certain ingredient does not completely represent the quality of the product.

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